
In the last posting I talked  about photographing fireworks using a tripod, remote release and time  exposures. Oh, bother. Who (besides me) wants to go through all of that  nonsense when what you really want is to just go have some fun at the  local fireworks and maybe come home with a few nice snapshots. Last year  I went to three fireworks shows and I think I was the only photographer  there with a tripod (and I kept hoping no one would trip over a tripod  leg in the dark). OK, I admit it, taking a tripod to the 4th of July  fireworks is a bit of a pain.
But fear not, there is a  simpler way to get good fireworks shots and it has worked so well for me  that, believe it or not, unless there is a really important foreground  that I want to include (see yesterday's photo) I just leave the tripod  in the car and shoot hand held. I still feel insecure and unprepared  without a tripod (as I would in almost any situation--especially at  night), but I'm sure with time (and therapy perhaps), I'll get over it.
The  method for photographing fireworks using a hand-held camera is simple:  just raise the ISO speed to around ISO 800 and put the camera in the  automatic or programmed exposure mode and shoot. Piece of cake. Even at  that fast speed, however, you may find yourself shooting at slower  shutter speeds than you feel comfortable with. There's an old rule for  deciding what is a safe hand-held shutter speed and that is to invert  the focal length of the lens and use that fraction as the lowest shutter  speed you can safely shoot without a tripod. If you're using a 100mm  lens, for example, try not to shoot at a speed slower than 1/125 of a  second (the closest speed to 1/100 on most cameras).
Of  course, with  image-stabilization technology you can probably sneak by  using a shutter speed even two or maybe three stops slower than that.  So, again, if you were shooting with a 100mm lens, you could probably  (probably) shoot safely with a shutter speed of 1/30 or even 1/15  second. (The traditional sequence of shutter speeds in that range is:  1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, etc., but many digital cameras have  additional in-between speeds, as well.) I was not using image  stabilization for the shot above, but managed to get a pretty sharp  picture at 1/8 second because I was resting the camera on the open  window frame of my car.
The wider the lens you use the  better your odds are at not chopping part of the bursts off and also at  capturing large bursts. I shot this photo with an 85mm lens (127mm  equivalent in 35mm, roughly) which is kind of long, but I was shooting  from the roof of a parking garage that was a bit far from the actual  event. Still, it took me a few wasted shots to figure out just the right  zoom setting to fill the fame without a lot of black space.
In  terms of exposure, I've had pretty good luck using the auto-exposure  modes. My D70s and D90 bodies amaze me at being so accurate in such  tough situations.  But if the fireworks seem to be getting over-exposed,  reduce your exposure either by using exposure compensation or by  switching to the shutter-priority mode and reducing the shutter speed. I  try to keep the lens at about f/5.6 or f/8 and only adjust the shutter  speed.
Experiment. The beauty of photographing  fireworks (and almost any night subject) with a digital camera is that  you can check your compositions on the LCD immediately and make the  necessary adjustments in both exposure and framing.